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Post by glenwood1 on Dec 3, 2010 11:51:14 GMT -5
Oh yeah, it's B R O K E N! Longish story, 1 of 2 guys broke it BUT the neck had a twist so spilled milk ya know? But here's my situation; I have 3 choices - (other than give up) 1 = new neck (HAHAHAHA) not available. 2 = truss rod rescue kit like from Stewmac (see link) www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Truss_rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html(I've got a machinnist neghbor who will make me one for $100 instead of the 250.) 3. Remove and replace the truss rod as was done here www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-discussion-forum/137345-lite-ash-truss-rod-replacement.htmlI'm a woodworker so this is relatively simple for me but not sure if the truss rod can be removed as easy as this one (have not found blueprints for HM strat neck). I'm posting here because I know that SOMEONE has to have come up against this problem since there are no replacement necks. Regardless, Does anyone have any kind of feedback? Whatever happens, I'll post the results after the fix. Like Ben Stein said in Ferris Bueller's Day Off: "Someone.... Anyone....?"
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Post by heem6 on Dec 3, 2010 15:33:21 GMT -5
Well, I can tell you this - it won't work to go in by removing the fretboard. I rebuilt an HM neck last year and just removing the neck won't get you to the open truss rod. I sanded down below the original level of the fretboard and still had wood left on top of the truss rod cavity. You'd need to use a truss rod rescue kit.
If I remember right, I was able to order a truss rod nut by contacting Fender who put me in touch with one of their third-party parts dealers. If you have to do this, look for the part number on our main website (owner's manual), because the dealer told me they didn't have the part until I gave them the parts number, then they found it.
Good luck! It sounds like an interesting project! Please post pics if you're able - I'm sure everyone would be interested to see how it goes.
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Post by glenwood1 on Dec 3, 2010 16:38:58 GMT -5
Thanks for the post! Funny but part of the reason I KNEW I couldn't go thru the fretboard was I say your post! (I think - the "sscalloped" mess you redid?) And the result was amazing AND part of the reason I'm willing to try to fix it. Whaever happens I'll post updates as able. Thanks again, I appreciate any info I get.
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Post by halo71 on Dec 3, 2010 21:12:47 GMT -5
Yeah he done such a nice job on those necks I about wish I had kept them! lol
Might be a dumb thought. But I recently sweated the board off a old Chandler neck. It was one of the necks I acquired from that scalloped board fiasco. I used a propane torch and in a matter of maybe 10 minutes I had teh board off that neck. Without any damage to the neck itself. I wonder if the truss rod cover on the back of your neck could be taken out in a similar manner.
You'd have to be careful to not scorch the wood I guess. In my case, the board was already f'd up so I didn't have to worry about scorching the wood on the neck.
Just a thought....
OR....if the board is taken off. There is not that much wood there before reaching the truss rod. Its possible you could take a router, in some short of home made jig. And run down the center taking shallow cuts until you are into the truss rod cavity.
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Post by heem6 on Dec 4, 2010 10:22:53 GMT -5
Hey, that's cool! Yes, that was this neck "Yngwied to Death." hahaha.
Look forward to seeing how this goes. It's really nice to see someone bringing an HM Strat back to life!
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Post by nickwellings on Dec 4, 2010 17:28:28 GMT -5
An easy way to lit a fretboard, and maybe safer than propane torches is to get a normal household iron, with steam control. Fill it up with water, set it to stream, and just leave it on a section, steaming away. Tap a sharp pallet knife or similiar (tiny chisel, sharpened shim etc in the join between fretboard and neck. And just repeat, slowly down the neck. Like this guy, or rather, like his wife, who did the removal! audiozone.dk/index-filer/sb/charvel-model6-guitar-restoration-01.htmThen you could do whatever needed to get to the cavity, if it is still covered.
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Post by halo71 on Dec 5, 2010 19:53:37 GMT -5
The use of a propane torch does not equal to reckless abandon in all cases.
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Post by glenwood1 on Dec 6, 2010 10:15:10 GMT -5
I appreciate all the feedback and hav not yet got it figured, but am pretty sure removing the fretboard won't help to remove the rod. A tech friend said that would probably weaken the neck.
Also, the rod probably won't be running level to the surface which would make routing (around metal) that much more difficult. I've written to a couple of "experts" to find out if there is an "anchor" installed somewhere around the 7th fret. NO idea how this works - if it prevents removal, is integral to the rod, etc.... If anyone knows I'd be thrilled to hear.
I still havent started on it but WILL post pics of the repair NO MATTER WHAT! (Yes, even if I ruin it!)
Thanks again
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Post by heem6 on Dec 6, 2010 16:52:14 GMT -5
The pictures on The Telecaster Forum were scary!
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Post by glenwood1 on Jan 19, 2011 11:56:55 GMT -5
NEED YOUR HELP! Heem6 OR ANYONE! - well I got the truss rod out and will post pics a little later. But I've been waiting for 2 weeks for an answer from Fender on an EASY question; What kind of adjusting nut do I use? Is it the bullet style or slotted or The old one is gone so I have no idea what to use. Everything else is ready to go (But the truss rod anchor is BIZARRE!) Drop a note when you get a sec & I'll try to post this evening. Thanks man!
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Post by heem6 on Jan 20, 2011 0:25:52 GMT -5
Hey Buddy, Check your email for a wiring diagram and parts list. Let me know which Fender Parts dealer you end up going with. I think I might have to order another of these as well.
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Post by nyazzip on Jun 12, 2011 2:05:00 GMT -5
...if the neck "had a twist", then why bother? normally the truss rod rarely has to be messed with. the truss rod shouldn't remedy twist anyway, broken or not. if indeed the truss rod IS broken, and the neck IS twisted, then you might as well forget about the rod, and the best option would be to re-radius and refret the neck, and hope no more warping goes on
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