crumbs
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by crumbs on Apr 29, 2010 18:26:36 GMT -5
Hey, I'm having a bit of trouble with my spyder at the moment, on the low E string saddle the original locking screw has been replaced with a floyd rose one. I tried to change the string but I couldn't find an allen key the right size so I tried to turn it using a plyers, still the thing wouldn't budge. Any advice? Should I just take it to a luthiers or something? Thanks.
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crumbs
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by crumbs on May 3, 2010 19:00:38 GMT -5
I've come to the conclusion that I should just replace the whole saddle as I think Kahler have started making them again. Again, any advice as to how to do this is very welcome.
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Post by lbeast on May 3, 2010 19:36:41 GMT -5
Have you removed the tremolo from he guitar by cutting the strings from it with needle nose pliers, wire clippers, or some wire snipping tool and unhooking the springs on the underside? If you remove the tremolo from the guitar you can get a set of vice-grips on it and then "Lefty Loosey" as the saying goes.
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crumbs
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by crumbs on May 3, 2010 20:38:32 GMT -5
no i haven't, i'd be almost afraid of messing the whole thing up, is it easy to do?
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Post by lbeast on May 3, 2010 21:50:46 GMT -5
no i haven't, i'd be almost afraid of messing the whole thing up, is it easy to do? Si' Senor. First cut the strings at the tremolo and then take off the tremolo spring cover off the back of the body of the guitar and just pull the springs straight out of the tremolo. Don't worry they go back in the way they came out. Slide the tremolo out of the body and then you can hold just the tremolo in your hand. You can wank on the string block screw until it gives up the ghost. Then promptly buy a new one at WammiWorld.com or Kahlerusa.com, install and enjoy. ;D
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crumbs
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by crumbs on May 3, 2010 23:01:57 GMT -5
Aah, splendid, I shall attempt this operation in the morning. Thanky, kind sir.
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Post by halo71 on May 4, 2010 11:45:00 GMT -5
May be dumb advice now....but I think I would have waited and found the correct key. So I didn't risk messing up the paint.
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crumbs
Junior Member
Posts: 57
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Post by crumbs on May 4, 2010 13:30:57 GMT -5
Welp, the operation was a complete success, and a shiny new E string has finally found a home ;D . Thanks for all the advice, lads .
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Post by bradley on Jul 24, 2010 21:22:32 GMT -5
I have a basic question which I haven't seen discussed about the Spyder trem. Mine is routed in so it wont pull back to any degree. I have looked at it and would have to route out under the back of the trem just before the fine tuners. Is it meant to sit on the routed cavity? it isn't a floating trem per se then not like the floyd rose 11 on the fender heartfields where you can pull back for Dimebag squeals?
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Post by Bodaggit23 on Jul 24, 2010 21:51:34 GMT -5
It just needs to be adjusted.
If the trem springs are too tight, the trem will bottom out, and it will only dive. I don't believe they were meant to function "one way" only.
If you loosen the trem springs in the back, the trem will raise up, allowing you to dive or pull on the arm.
Doing this will require retuning, and most likely require adjusting the angle of your neck in the pocket.
Simple to do, but takes a little time.
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Post by nickwellings on Jul 25, 2010 4:00:08 GMT -5
The whole issue of "dive only" Spyders is very common! As Bod says it is only a question of adjusting the trem. I think what throws people is that the Spyder is sort of wedge shaped, and everyone tries to adjust it so that the wedge-edge lays flat. So they keep tightening the trem springs/screws until it can't pull up. Certainly that was my experience.
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Post by bradley on Jul 25, 2010 18:16:41 GMT -5
Success!!! That worked. It is a much better trem than I ever gave it credit for. I have a Charvel mod 4 with a Kahler 2300 series which are brilliant. I much prefer them to any floyds. The Spyder was 1 reason I wanted a HM Strat. SO now I have a nice floating trem I can pull back on and didn't have to tweak string height as it pretty much stayed the same. I must admit I was under the impression that the wedge should stay parallel to the body because you tend to think the arm will lean into the body before you get to apply much pressure. I found this wasn't the case with the spyder. Thanks Guys
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Post by nickwellings on Jul 25, 2010 19:44:17 GMT -5
Cool stuff, bradley. I am very glad we could all help. I had the same "wowser!" moment, when I realised mine could float too. Takes a bit of tweaking to get the arm where you want it, and floating (not too low/high) but once there, Trem-ville here we come!!
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Post by Bodaggit23 on Jul 26, 2010 1:00:31 GMT -5
Nice job man! Glad you got it tweaked to your liking!
I think Nick actually posted the actual specs for the Spyder (sorry if I'm wrong) but at the actual angle specified by Kahler, the Fine Tuners will be just about level with the body.
At that point, the trem body is pointing up just a bit.
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