Post by richyoung on Jan 4, 2015 22:35:22 GMT -5
Greetings -
I've been a long-time fan and user of the HM Strats and worked a weekend gig in a guitar and amp shop, so I thought I would share a few things to be on the look-out for when looking over a used HM Strat:
1. Body crack - the 24 frets make the neck a little long. Fender moved the neck pickup on HSS models closer tot he bridge, but it is still too close to the neck pocket. Over time, it is not uncommon to find a HSS HM Stat has developed crack from (usually the bass string side of) the neck pocket into the route for the neck pickup. I'm not sure the "right" way to repair - most times I've seen people wick wood glue or cyanoacrylate into the crack by putting pressure on the neck (SLIGHTLY! SLIGHTLY!) to open the crack and get the glue in. Let it spring back, wipe off excess, and let dry with no string tension on neck. The cause is frequently a drop or collision with your jerk lead singer!
2. Stripped strap button screws. An easy fix - correct method is to drill out and plug with a hardwood dowel, and re-drill. What most people do is coat a toothpick or two with wood glue, shove them in the hole, break or cut them off flush, and cram the screw back in. Cause is basswood (soft) body, small screw, and whirling your axe around like fiend. Check this on any new one and periodically check on player axes. You don't want to thump an HM on the floor - do ya? BTW, invest in strap-locks!
3. Pots. You know - those things in the guitar that the knobs actually turn? If they are scratchy, you can try spraying some DeOxit or color TV tuner cleaner into the small opening near the circuit board and work them back and forth - but if they are less than pristine collector's items, and you intend to paly them, best to just go ahead and get quality replacements. Make sure they are close in physical size, as well as electrical value, or you may not be able to fit them in the cavity.
4. Coil tap switch. Often broken off or not working. Solder in the closest replacement you can find - last one I did I find one at Radio Shack that was identical to the factory one - hard core players may want to upgrade to a metal toggle switch over the plastic.
5. Kahler string lock block bolts - like another poster said, if the hex head is stripped out, you can slot them with a small file or hacksaw blade and use a flat tip - at least until you can find replacements.
6. Kahler fulcrum pins. The little screws the Spyder pivots on take a beating. I think new replacements are available - if not - you can take a similar sized screw to a machine shop and have them machine a duplicate - bring them the best original one you have as a pattern. Prepare to pay for the machines to be set up, so have a few spares made at the same time, or go in with some other owners to get a bunch done. I hope to goodness that factory spares are back in the pipeline.
7. Locking nut screws. Not as big an issue as the fulcrums, but still a pain in the ass to find if they are missing.
Anybody else got any other points to check?
8. Tilt-neck adjustment screw. Often lost and omitted when repainted or the neck is off.
I've been a long-time fan and user of the HM Strats and worked a weekend gig in a guitar and amp shop, so I thought I would share a few things to be on the look-out for when looking over a used HM Strat:
1. Body crack - the 24 frets make the neck a little long. Fender moved the neck pickup on HSS models closer tot he bridge, but it is still too close to the neck pocket. Over time, it is not uncommon to find a HSS HM Stat has developed crack from (usually the bass string side of) the neck pocket into the route for the neck pickup. I'm not sure the "right" way to repair - most times I've seen people wick wood glue or cyanoacrylate into the crack by putting pressure on the neck (SLIGHTLY! SLIGHTLY!) to open the crack and get the glue in. Let it spring back, wipe off excess, and let dry with no string tension on neck. The cause is frequently a drop or collision with your jerk lead singer!
2. Stripped strap button screws. An easy fix - correct method is to drill out and plug with a hardwood dowel, and re-drill. What most people do is coat a toothpick or two with wood glue, shove them in the hole, break or cut them off flush, and cram the screw back in. Cause is basswood (soft) body, small screw, and whirling your axe around like fiend. Check this on any new one and periodically check on player axes. You don't want to thump an HM on the floor - do ya? BTW, invest in strap-locks!
3. Pots. You know - those things in the guitar that the knobs actually turn? If they are scratchy, you can try spraying some DeOxit or color TV tuner cleaner into the small opening near the circuit board and work them back and forth - but if they are less than pristine collector's items, and you intend to paly them, best to just go ahead and get quality replacements. Make sure they are close in physical size, as well as electrical value, or you may not be able to fit them in the cavity.
4. Coil tap switch. Often broken off or not working. Solder in the closest replacement you can find - last one I did I find one at Radio Shack that was identical to the factory one - hard core players may want to upgrade to a metal toggle switch over the plastic.
5. Kahler string lock block bolts - like another poster said, if the hex head is stripped out, you can slot them with a small file or hacksaw blade and use a flat tip - at least until you can find replacements.
6. Kahler fulcrum pins. The little screws the Spyder pivots on take a beating. I think new replacements are available - if not - you can take a similar sized screw to a machine shop and have them machine a duplicate - bring them the best original one you have as a pattern. Prepare to pay for the machines to be set up, so have a few spares made at the same time, or go in with some other owners to get a bunch done. I hope to goodness that factory spares are back in the pipeline.
7. Locking nut screws. Not as big an issue as the fulcrums, but still a pain in the ass to find if they are missing.
Anybody else got any other points to check?
8. Tilt-neck adjustment screw. Often lost and omitted when repainted or the neck is off.
